Montreal Daily Star, 21 July 1911, page 8




Instead of striped frocks, plaided ones now enter the arena of fashion and make a remarkably attractive alternative.

That very favorite color, rowan red, chequered with black, is seen in foulard, and the white mousselines faintly figured with purple and blue, cerise, or dun-brown are very fresh and pretty.

There is a most fascinating method noticeable now of gauging the hem of a skirt, and producing squares by so doing, and for the purpose fine cord is used, covered with the material employed.  At the extreme edge of the gauging a little frill falls, unless ball fringe or a bordering of crystal lattice-work be preferred.

Typical of the millinery modes that ought to be suitable for July are the piquant Niniche shapes with brims that are at the sides and make a most becoming “tunnel” like shelter for the face, interpreted not only in straw and lace, after their recent manner, with feathers wreathed them closely around, but in the lightest of tulle, pleated like a lamp shade and filled in at the back with a forest of fibre shreds that look like osprey plumage.

There is also the Phrygian cap rendered in supple straw with a band of ribbon resting on the hair, to say nothing of various wonderful tailor-made hats, so-called because they are compact and neat.  A long procession of river and shore models, made of materials of many types, from curly-surfaced toweling to tarpaulin is also within sight.

The travelling tailor-made hats are a distinctly new species.  Already felt is used for them, and Janus cloth is liked, on one side white, and on the other scarlet, black, blue or violet.  They are as light as gossamer, and as supple and comfortable as can be, decidedly high in the crown and with a compact brim.  One model is composed of upstanding peaks like envelope flaps, and another has a brim with revers that allows the other side of the material.

Eccentricity is the leading trait of numbers of pretty frocks, and no amount of thought is considered wasted that produces an amusing effect.

Until Fashion’s whims are understood, one may be pardoned for supposing that the dressmaker’s scissors and fingers have erred in designing and making the shoulder of one frock high and the other low, and in rendering a corsage and indeed a complete frock totally different  one side from the other.  Such effects and the so-called half and half dresses are freakish, it is true, but the sartorial artist contrives to make them very fascinating in appearance, and even to invest them with an air of engaging simplicity, so that it is not until they are carefully contemplated that the full measure of their clever diversity is understood.

An exquisite evening robe is contrived by means of straw-colored satin of the exact shade of the mallow Mallines lace, of which half of it is formed.

To explain the means whereby the satin and lace is draped and mingled is well-nigh impossible; suffice it to say that the result is completely elegant, though the sleeves differ on one side from the other, at the back and in front, and the skirt in motley too.  but the result is perfection.

The initial charm of many of the prettiest evening toilettes is their jocund coloring.  It is inspiriting to encounter a frock that looks as if the fields had been stripped of blue-bells to make it, and to meet dresses that look like the rosy clouds of early days.